Hair as a symbol of self-expression and personal identity

Hair as a symbol of self-expression and personal identity

Expanding the Canvas of Black Beauty: A Journey Through Francophone African Women's Perspectives

Sefa Yakpo, a soon-to-be graduate with a double major in French and management science, embarks on a captivating quest to dissect the politics of beauty among Francophone African women. Born and raised in Ghana, her encounter with the dichotomy between her natural hair and the idealized images of straightened hair in commercials sparks a lifelong curiosity. This curiosity transforms into a senior thesis, offering Yakpo a platform to delve into the intricate web of beauty standards that shape the lives of African women.

Working alongside her thesis advisor, Professor M. Amah Edoh, Yakpo opts to investigate the factors that inform the ideals of beauty for Black Francophone African women, both in contemporary times and historically. Her research primarily focuses on two primary sources: AWA: la revue de la femme noire, a French-language magazine published in Dakar, Senegal between 1964 and 1973, and a popular YouTube channel dedicated to black hair created by a Franco-Senegalese woman.

To shed light on her findings, Yakpo draws upon academic scholarship on the politics of black hair from Cameroonian, French, and American scholars such as anthropologist Francis B. Nyamnjoh, sociologist Juliette Sméralda, and media studies scholar Dilip Gaonkar, among others. The resulting thesis, entirely penned in French, moves effortlessly between Yakpo's personal narrative and the analysis of her research data.

A powerful influence on Yakpo's research is Shirley Anne Tate's book, "Black Beauty: Aesthetics, Stylization, Politics." This critical text underscores the complex and diverse ways in which black women negotiate social conventions of beauty. Tate asserts that there isn't a one-size-fits-all approach to understanding an individual's navigation of these questions. This idea resonates strongly with Yakpo, who argues in her thesis that the meanings behind hair are flexible and a mix of influences that change over time and geography.

Yakpo posits that while Africa's colonial past can't be ignored, modern Francophone African women desire the freedom to experiment with their hairstyles and textures. She contends that imposing a single "acceptable" hair style for women proud of their African heritage diminishes their autonomy.

During a well-attended presentation on Dec. 4, Yakpo shared her insights from her project titled "Kinks and Identity: Unraveling Francophone African Women's Attitudes to and Perspectives on their Hair." Professor Edoh introduced the presentation, highlighting the political significance of the black female body, which is routinely politicized in media and popular culture, as seen in the media portrayal of U.S. former first lady, Michelle Obama, and France's former Minister of Justice, Christiane Taubira. Edoh emphasized that Yakpo's research on the ideals of beauty for black women, specifically regarding their hair, addresses a topic of both enduring concern and great political importance.

In addition to her thesis, Yakpo boasts an impressive undergraduate career at MIT. She has participated in internships in France and Belgium, won the 2017 Isabelle de Courtivron Writing Prize, and was honored as a Burchard Scholar in 2017. Prior to MIT, Yakpo was the winner of the 2014 Math Olympiad in Ghana.

When probing the nuances of beauty standards for Francophone African women, Yakpo's research undoubtedly touches on the following themes:

Historical Criteria of Beauty

1. Colonial Influence: European standards of beauty imposed during the colonial era led to internalized racism and the devaluation of African features.
2. Traditional Beauty Standards: Beauty was once associated with health, fertility, strength, and spiritual well-being, with features like darker skin tones and scarification valued in many African cultures.
3. Cultural Significance: Beauty held cultural and spiritual significance, often tied to communal and social roles.

Contemporary Criteria of Beauty

1. Diversification of Standards: Modern beauty standards have become more inclusive, with a growing recognition of African beauty internationally. However, traditional media often still perpetuates Eurocentric ideals.
2. Natural Hair Movement: The natural hair movement serves as a powerful force in reclaiming and celebrating African beauty, promoting self-acceptance and self-love.
3. Body Positivity: Efforts to promote body positivity challenge traditional beauty norms that often exclude African features.

Social, Cultural, and Economic Factors

1. Media Representation: The media plays a crucial role in shaping beauty ideals. Increased representation of diverse African beauty in media can influence perceptions and self-esteem.
2. Cultural Revivalism: Efforts to revive and celebrate African cultural practices and values help in redefining beauty standards.
3. Economic Factors: Economic access to beauty products and services can influence how beauty standards are adopted and perceived. Globalization and the rise of African cosmetics and beauty industries have contributed to a more inclusive beauty market.
4. Social Media: Social media platforms have become potent tools for promoting diverse beauty standards and challenging traditional norms.

While specific details of Yakpo's thesis are not publicly available, her research undoubtedly offers a fresh perspective on the interplay between historical, social, cultural, and economic factors in shaping beauty ideals for Black Francophone African women. The thesis likely investigates the impact of contemporary movements and media on these ideals, promoting a more inclusive understanding of beauty.

1. Sefa Yakpo's research investigates the factors influencing the beauty ideals of Black Francophone African women, delving into the historical and contemporary criteria that shape their perceptions of beauty.
2. In her exploration, Yakpo draws upon academic works such as Shirley Anne Tate's "Black Beauty: Aesthetics, Stylization, Politics," which emphasizes the diverse ways black women navigate beauty standards.
3. The historical criteria of beauty Yakpo examines include colonial influence, traditional beauty standards, and cultural significance, analyzing how European standards and African cultural practices have influenced beauty ideals.
4. Contemporary criteria of beauty under scrutiny include the diversification of standards, the natural hair movement, and body positivity, highlighting shifts in beauty ideals and the growing recognition of African beauty.
5. Social, cultural, and economic factors, such as media representation, cultural revivalism, economic access, and the influence of social media, are explored in Yakpo's research, offering a comprehensive understanding of the interplay between various influences in shaping beauty ideals for Black Francophone African women.

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